Whether they have corkscrew curls or loose waves, most women spend a good deal of their time trying to change their natural hair. If you’ve ever looked enviously upon the straight, sleek strands seen on models and in beauty magazines, you should know that most of them probably don’t have straight hair naturally. In fact, only 35 percent of women are actually born with straight hair – the rest just know how to fake it. Instead of becoming a slave to the blow-dryer and flat iron routine, why not learn how to properly care for textured hair? In this article, you’ll learn how to stop fighting with those curls and waves and maintain a low-maintenance routine – without being plagued by frizz and unruly hair.
Part one: Hair type basics
Hair type goes beyond just straight or curly, thin or thick. Categorizing your hair type correctly will help you look past the labels and find the best everyday products and treatments for your hair. Curly hair products can be tricky to choose; some products are designed to hydrate and define super-curly hair types, while others work best to cut frizz and add volume on finer, slightly wavy hair. If you’ve given up on styling products because they either left your hair crunchy, frizzy, dry, oily or just not right, here are some ways to understand your hair type and determine what products you need.
Curl pattern. Many curly-haired types use the “Andre Walker Typing System” to categorize their curl pattern. In her blog, “Busy Life, Fab Hair,” blogger Latoya breaks down this system:
1 = Straight Hair
2 = Wavy Hair
3 = Curly Hair
4 = Kinky Hair
Each category is broken down by how curly or wavy the hair is and assigned a letter from A through C. Type 2A is the least wavy hair type, and is characterized by very loose, unformed “S-shaped” waves that sit pretty close to the scalp. From there it moves on to 2B, 2C, 3A and so on. Type 4C describes the tightest curls. Don’t get caught up in defining your exact hair type, and remember that it’s normal to have two or more different curl patterns. It’s very common for the top layer of hair to be a bit frizzier because it’s exposed to more environmental and heat styling damage, while the layers underneath are often curlier.
Curly or kinky hair requires a lot of moisture, so use a heavier conditioner like Frederic Fekkai Advanced Essential Shea Conditioner to cut frizz and leave hair silky-soft. Wavy hair is usually more hydrated naturally, so choose a lighter conditioner that won’t weigh your hair down. Philip B Light-Weight Deep Conditioning Creme Rinse will hydrate hair while encouraging natural waves.
Texture and density. Texture refers to the thickness of the individual hairs; texture can be coarse, fine or somewhere in between. Coarse hairs naturally have more protein and are stronger, while thin hairs can break easily. Don’t confuse texture with density, which refers to how many individual hairs are on your head; many people with thick hair actually have high density but fine hair.
If you have thin hair and are noticing a lot of breakage, try a hair strengthening treatment that contains protein, such as Klorane Fortifying Treatment Shampoo with Quinine and B Vitamins. For thick, coarse hair, you don’t need protein; your hair is already pretty strong. Instead, use a deep conditioning mask weekly.
Part two: Basic hair care for curls and waves
Shampoo. The number one rule for cutting frizz and enhancing waves or curls: stop shampooing so often! Use a gentle shampoo every two or three days, and use a conditioner only on the days you don’t shampoo. When choosing shampoos, look for products that don’t contain sulfates. These cleansing agents are what create lather in your shampoo, but they can be drying. Use a sulfate-free shampoo like Alterna BAMBOO UV Color Protection Vibrant Color Shampoo. To get rid of any styling product build-up, you can use a clarifying treatment on a weekly or bi-weeky basis, like Malibu Un-Do-Goo Sulfate-Free Clarifying Shampoo.
Cleansing conditioners. Some curly-haired gals prefer to skip shampoo altogether and just use a lightweight conditioner to cleanse the hair. Believe it or not, the basic action of scrubbing your scalp still removes dirt and debris. You’ll want a conditioner that’s very thin in consistency, or a “cleansing conditioner” like L'Oreal Ever Curl Hydracharge Cleansing Conditioner.
Weekly treatments. On a weekly or bi-weekly basis, incorporate a specialized treatment tailored to your hair’s individual needs, whether that means a deep conditioner, a protein treatment or both!
Styling products. Choosing styling products that contain only water-soluble ingredients will allow you to go longer between shampoos and prevent build-up. In particular, some types of silicones – common ingredients in conditioners and anti-frizz products – tend to cause more buildup and weigh the hair down, which isn’t good if you’re trying to encourage curls. According to Self, dimethicone coats the hair and is hard to remove (although it gives hair great shine and protects from heat styling). For a lighter product, the magazine suggests perusing labels for lightweight silicones like cyclomethicone or dimethicone copolyol, or use a silicone-free styling product like Rahua Finishing Treatment.
Skip the brush and use a wide-tooth comb to untangle any knots, then apply product while your hair is still fairly wet. "The key to getting your curls to take shape is to give them some direction while wet, and not to touch them when they're dry," Los Angeles hairstylist Luke O'Connor tells Real Simple. Encourage curls or waves by gently scrunching or twirling individual sections. Then comes the hard part – try not to touch your hair, which will cause frizz.
Now that you understand a little more about your hair type, you can use this information in two ways. First, and most importantly, you’ll be able to know what type of products you’re looking for, whether that means a deep-conditioning mask or a protein treatment or just daily hair care products. Secondly, it’s helpful to draw upon this information when reading online product reviews or discussing product options with others who may have similar hair type and texture. However you employ your newfound hair knowledge, know that understanding your hair is the first step to developing a hair care routine that allows you to accept, embrace and appreciate the hair you were born with.
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